Upington must be a town of motorcycle and 4x4 enthusiasts, because I could hardly go anywhere without being queried by curious locals. Seems the motorcycle and I look atypical.
"I have a lot of respect for what you're doing", declared Shalk. "I'm on my way to our local bike night; do yourself a favour and follow me there. We're stopping by a few spots, then having a braai".
I was at the gas station when I met Shalk. I had just finished getting the motorcycle serviced and upgraded at a local garage, 4x4 Mega World, and was refueling on my way to find a spot to camp outside town. I did have some flexibility, and I had a good feeling about Shalk. Feeling fresh and social, I agreed, and off we went, following him on his white street-bike.
4x4 Mega World
I was feeling relieved as I approached Upington. I had a few pending issues on the bike I wanted to address, and was advised along the road that Upington would have all the resources I would need. The main issue was a major oil leak in my front suspension.
Upington also marked the end of the Karoo, and the start of the Kalahari. I had been in the Kalahari as a child, but was eager to explore it on my own terms. I've since learned that the Kalahari is much larger than I first thought, covering much of North-central South Africa and stretching through Namibia as far North as Southern Angola. It also covers much of Botswana.
I was taken care of really well by the team at 4x4 Mega World. I was given timely advice about handling the conditions that lie ahead in Namibia, and my front suspension was well-serviced and upgraded. Beforehand, I had minimal fork socks to protect my suspension from dirt and dust, which is likely why I had this issue. I now have new oil and seals, backup oil and seals, and proper fork covers. More than 1000km later, my front suspension still feels "cushy".
The motorcycle sounded wonderful leaving the shop that day. It also felt like being bid farewell by family as I left 4x4 Mega World. Right before leaving, it seemed the entire staff was there asking me questions, taking my social media details, and sharing advice for the road ahead. So grateful for them!
Steel Disciples
Before long, Shalk turned onto a dirt road that lead into Upington's horse showgrounds. This is where the home bar is for the town's motorcycle club, the "Steel Disciples". After some quick introductions, about six of us on motorcycles started making the rounds to the town's different bars and hangouts. I had a great time seeing the local sights and busting moves on the dancefloor.
I met lots of new people that night. I ended up staying an extra two nights eating sushi in parking lots, enjoying lots of laughs, and having long fireside conversations with new friends, Hester and Piki. It's unclear how it happened, but we became an instant trio of muskateers falling into little adventures around town. Thanks you two. I had a blast.
I could have easily stayed for longer, but my time was running out. I had a long way to go before reaching the Hochlande. I caught up with Shalk back at Steel Disciples, then hit the road.
The Kalahari
I chose a very small immigration office for my border crossing into Namibia, because it lie near to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park. I've been curious about this park for a long time, but had very little hope that I would be allowed to enter on my motorcycle. Why? Lions.
I've since heard of a place in Namibia where the park rangers conduct patrols on motorcycles in lion habitat. Maybe I can join them. That would be incredible. Heck, I think my motorcycle was used for something similar in its previous life.
The road from Upington toward Kgalagadi was gorgeous. The pavement rolled along dunes held solid by fairly robust vegetation. I was mesmerized by the hues of red and yellow painting the landscape, not being able to predict what lie between each set of dunes. I started seeing Gemsbok here.
I thought I might camp at a Meerkat sanctuary near the park boundary that night. The place seemed like it was hibernating when I arrived, and the Meerkats were nowhere in sight. There was plenty of daylight left, so I pushed for the border.
Namibia
Adrenaline propelled me into sparse, South-eastern Namibia past nightfall, something I avoided doing in South Africa for safety reasons. I was too excited to make camp. I was sad to leave South Africa, but reaching Namibia gave me a thrilling sense of accomplishment. I've been looking forward to this for a long time.
I grew up with stories of Namibia from my parents. They lived here for almost four years as newlyweds. They had a Volkswagen Beetle, complete with enlarged engine and tires, as their (rear-wheel drive) 4x4 vehicle. Along with spare parts, they carried a set of tools for the inevitable roadside repairs their adventures required. That was more than 30 years ago.
Run-ins with various wildlife and turbulent african politics coloured many of the stories we heard as kids. Here I am on a parallel adventure with a motorcycle similarly rudimentary and robust to my parents' old VW. This is a story long in the making.
The Namib Desert
Heading due West, I was quickly leaving the Kalahari to enter the Namib desert. After picking up some supplies in Keetmanshoop, my plan was to take all the dirt roads I could toward Swakopmund. This was a slight detour away from the Hochlande, but I was eager to see "Swakop".
Floating on loose dirt and sand across the Namib lingers like a dream in my memory. It was remarkable to ride through endless breathtaking landscapes while hardly seeing anyone around. For 4x4 enthusiasts, this country is an endless playground.
I wasn't sure what to expect in terms of sandy roads. I've had almost zero experience riding on sand until before this trip, but knew there was a trick to it. Once again, I'm grateful for my minimalist choice of motorcycle in this sandy context. It made the consequences less severe while I got the hang of things. When you're riding all day for days on end, you learn the fundamentals quickly.
Motorcycle safety
By now, I've heard so many stories of people hurting themselves on motorcycles. Nearly every motorcyclist has at least one story.
I have had a long-term approach to my riding ever since I started. I had only been riding motorcycles for about two months before I set off on my first journey (across Canada), but I had confidence in thinking that I would learn very quickly by riding every day. I wasn't searching for quick thrills. Never have. I wanted to go far, which meant instilling good habits early on so I can focus on enjoying the journey and where it takes me.
Something clicked in my mind when I realized how versatile and reliable these bikes can be. It was never about going fast and pushing the limits. The limits I like to push are different. For me, I love to imagine the type of lifestyle I can live and how I can make it sustainable. I realized that fitting my life onto a motorcycle can open so many possibilities.
If I hurt myself, or I don't maintain the bike properly, then the adventure comes crashing to a halt. All those possibilities quickly turn to zero. It's just not worth it. I like to play the long game.
Sand
Sand becomes tricky when you slow down. Hitting the front brake never helps, either. Maintaining your speed keeps the ride smooth, especially if you lean your weight over the back tire and weight-shift gradually through turns. Being too rigid or reactive can make riding sand an exhausting and sketchy experience.
Riding on sand becomes really fun once you get the hang of it. You can feel the motorcycle lift as it floats across varying depths of sand. The front tire starts to act like more of a rudder, using it to feel grooves in the sand to guide your weight to where you want to go.
Soon enough, I even felt confident enough to pick up a new friend along the way.
Nearing Swakopmund
It took about four or five days to reach Swakop from Keetmanshoop. The roads, sights, camping, and wildlife were an absolute pleasure along the way. I had a few fun moments chasing baboons, gemsbok, springbok, and ostrich on the motorcycle. A dream of mine is to ride alongside a cheetah. Namibia boasts Africa's largest cheetah population, so this is the place to be.
The next post(s) will cover the Khomas Hochlande, one of the most difficult days, and some deeper insights into Africa. You’ll also soon see the irony behind this post’s comments on motorcycle safety.
G
Ek was op hoerskool hier😃