Reaching Swakopmund was my first time seeing the ocean since leaving Hermanus in South Africa. The coast was much cooler than the desert as I rode from Walvis Bay on a road that hugged the beach where massive sand dunes meet the ocean.
I was looking forward to checking into a backpackers in Swakop. This town is known as one of Namibia's top vacation towns, so I thought it would be an opportune time to take a break from the desert. I felt like socializing.
A common theme on this adventure has been to "be careful what you wish for", because I’m receiving much more than I bargain for these days. I wanted to socialize? Socialize I did. New Swakop friends have since become a hub for making adventure plans. One of us has his own 4x4, another is on a bicycle, and I'm on my motorcycle.
We've since explored the famous Donkey Bay, and have all migrated to Windhoek. Plenty more adventures have since ensued, but not without some challenging days. I've had a few hiccups since Swakop, which has become an educational twist before what lies beyond Windhoek.
Sick
Before Windhoek, I first had to make the trip from Swakop to a friend’s farm in the Khomas Hochlande. This is a long stretch for one day, so I camped at Namibia's famous Spitzkoppe along the way. This was another long-awaited stop. The name "Spitzkoppe" has floated around our family household ever since I can remember; a painting of these sudden peaks hanging over our front door for years.
It was stunning to arrive as the sun set behind the koppe. I was thrilled to explore the area in the morning. Unfortunately, come sunrise, I would not have the time to do so.
I must have drank some bad water, because I woke up without an ounce of energy. I had no appetite for breakfast and wondered whether I should stay an extra night to recover. My friends in the Hochlande had had to expedite their plans, so I didn't have a day to spare. I decided to go for it, despite feeling awful.
It took me more than two hours to unpack my camp as I took a few moments' rest after each couple of movements. Getting back on the road wasn't much easier. The first half of the ride was mostly pavement, challenging my concentration while my body pleaded for rest. I took quick naps at three different gas stations along the way.
It was hard to believe I still had almost four hours of riding left after turning onto the dirt near Wilhemstaal. I thought this would be the most challenging part of the day, but it turned out to be the opposite. This area was so gorgeous and full of wildlife that my fatigue often faded from my awareness. My mind was also trained on the various sand and dirt conditions of the road, which was a lot of fun to navigate.
I was blessed with seeing plenty of Kudu, Gemsbok, and even Bat-eared Fox. As the light started to fade, the sporadic rocky outcrops and abundance of wildlife had me speculating at the presence of leopards. I've since learned that leopards are indeed very common here.
I felt sweet relief as I arrived at my friends' farm just after nightfall, managing to stomach a steak before heading straight to bed. My body started shaking aggressively once finally allowing myself to relax after the long day of concentration.
This was the hardest day thus far. It took a good week before I felt back to normal again. Thankfully, I got to spend a fun couple of days exploring the Hochlande, taking a break from the bike.
From here on out, I have been much more cautious with the water that I drink.
Broken
As you know, I've been in Windhoek ever since. I've had a great time exploring the city while waiting for motorcycle parts.
I've often been asked, "How long will you be in Windhoek for?". My typical response has been, "Until I upgrade my motorcycle, but I'm in no rush to leave".
I love leaving my plans open. Reaching Windhoek was the first goal of this whole journey, making sure to reach my friends in the Hochlande before they left. Now that I don't have any deadlines, I'm relishing in taking each day as it comes.
If I spend a few months here, so be it. Remember when I said that I needed to be careful what I wish for? Well, it looks like I'll be here for a while yet...
I broke my ankle. It was a silly accident. I was practicing a maneuver in an empty dirt parking lot, but dropped the motorcycle on my leg as I came to a stop. It seemed like an innocuous fall, but I couldn't walk afterwards.
Good timing
If ever I was to injure myself, then my timing couldn't be better. Getting hurt in a remote area would have been much more serious.
I had just finished house-sitting for new friends in Windhoek, one of which is a doctor (Werner). I went to stay at a backpackers on the other side of town once they returned. I broke my ankle the very next day, enduring two nights sleeping in a tent as I hopped around town. Thankfully, I knew just who to call.
I have been so well taken care of. I have since stayed with Werner and his young family for the initial stage of my recovery, having a great time getting to know each other while following the Rugby and Wimbledon. I am now back in the Hochlande to pass time on the farm.
I owe so much to the network of friends who have come together to show me Windhoek, and now help me in my recovery. Thank you, everyone!
Shifting gears
I'm not as dissapointed as I expected I might be in this situation. I'm oddly content. I have the luxury of time, so I'm welcoming the opportunity to be in Africa at a slower pace.
This is also an opportunity to reflect on my experiences thus far, and to do some research before the next leg of the adventure. It's a different Africa once I leave Namibia. I expect more densely populated areas, less English and Afrikaans, less infrastructure, and less familiar cultures.
Afrikaans has been extremely helpful in allowing me to experience a rich depth of interactions with others. It has been commonly spoken everywhere I've been, but I don't expect this beyond Namibia.
Re-evaluating Africa
There are two aspects of Africa that I've been intent on learning more about: (1) the cultural and symbolic background that informs the psyche of the average African and (2) the present reality of the analog and digital infrastructure available for bitcoin adoption.
In my next post, I will be going over some books and other materials relevant to the two points above. I’ll also share how my experiences have shed light on these topics thus far.
Looking forward to it,
G
I loveee all these reflections. Thanks for sharing your journey!!
Sounds like some “true” Namibia experiences so far. Enjoy and good luck with the recovery